简介：Theexperimentalstudiesofthewavebreakingeffectsonfreakwavegenerationarepresentedwithinafinite-depthrandomwavetraininalaboratorywavetank.Themainattentionispaidtotheabnormalindex,AI=Hmax/Hs,beingusedtocharacterizethefreakwaves,andthechangesofthecoefficientduetowavebreaking.Theresultsshowthattheoccurrenceprobabilityoffreakwaveeventsinnon-breakingwavesismuchlargerthanthatinbreakingwavesandsuchoccurrenceindeepwaterislargerthanthatinshallowwater.

简介：波浪为有限深度的随机的波浪火车在波浪统计上碎的影响试验性地被调查。这篇论文是调查波浪在有限深度的水上为随机的波浪在波浪统计上碎和水深度的影响。更大的注意由于波浪在随机的波浪火车碎在波浪统计对变化被给予。结果证明表面举起的偏斜度独立于波浪碎，峭度被波浪碎压制。最后，为波浪高度的exceedance可能性也被调查。关键词飘动碎-波浪统计-波浪高度分发-偏斜度-峭度基础条款：在资助号码2007AA11Z130下面在资助No.50579007和国家高技术研究和中国(863程序)的开发节目下面由中国的国家自然科学基础支持了。赵锡增在1979出生了。他是一会儿在为应用力学的研究院的一个博士后的伙伴，九州大学。他从Dalian工业大学在2009在水动力学收到了他的博士学位。他的主要研究利息包括非线性的波浪理论和怪胎波浪。

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简介：Byusingthebifurcationtheoryofdynamicalsystemstothecouplednonlinearwaveequations,theexistenceandstabilityofperiodicwavesolutionsbyHopfbifurcationsareobtained.Theoryoftravellingwavewasappliedtotransformakindofcouplednonlinearwaveequationsintothree-dimensiondynamicalsystems.Underdifferentparametricconditions,varioussufficientconditionstoguaranteetheexistenceandstabilityoftheabovesolutionsaregiven.

简介：Waveabsorbingstructureshavebeenwidelyappliedinmanycountries.Inthepresentpaper,thewaveheightsinfrontofaverticalwaveabsorbingstructurewithrubblefoundationaswellasinthewavechamberofthestructureareanalysedusinganapproximativecalculationmethod,andthedissipatingeffectofthestructureisverified.Onthebasisoftheresultsofregularwaves,therelativewaveheightsofirregularwavesinfrontofthewaveabsorbingstructureaswellasinthechamberhavealsobeenanalysed.

简介：一辆数字波浪坦克被用来调查非强迫的波浪碎的发作和力量，并且波浪有起始的系列的三种类型：经常的振幅光谱，经常的险峻光谱和Pierson-Moscowitz光谱。数字测试被执行验证模型结果。然后，波浪碎的发作与几何、运动学、动态的碎标准被讨论。波浪碎的力量，它是总是由部分精力损失和碎力量系数描绘了，为不同系列被学习。结果显示出精力生长率怎么比估计部分精力损失以及碎力量系数上的起始的波浪险峻好。

简介：Inrealseastates,damageincidentsonoffshorefloatingstructuresarenotduetothewholetimeseriesofwaveelevationcharacterizedasstatisticalonebutduetofewextremewavesorwavegroupsinirregularwavetrain.So,usingCFDtoolstopreciselysimulatepredeterminedirregularwavetrainwilllaysoundbasisforunderstandingthelocalcharacteristicoftheflowfieldandimpactloadsonoffshorefloatingstructureswhendamageincidentsoccur.Inthisarticle,thegenerationofsingleextremewaveisinvestigatedinanumericalwavetank.First,experimentalirregularwavetrainisdecomposedintocertainnumberofsmall-amplitudewaves.TheFourierseriesexpansionisperformedtodeterminetheamplitudeandinitialphaseangleofeachwavecomponent.Ahydrodynamictransferfunctionisusedtocalculatetheamplitudeofwave-makermotionassociatedwitheachwavecomponent.Thensuperpositioniscarriedoutonallofthewave-makermotioncomponentstogetthefinalwave-makermotion.Withthewave-makermotionasinput,simulationofthesingleextremeirregularwavetrainismodeledsuccessfully.Thenthemethodisappliedtosimulatingamuchmorecomplicatedirregularwavetrain.OnceagainmainfeaturesofthecomplicatedirregularwavetrainarereproducedcomparedwithexperimentcarriedoutinthenewdeepwaterexperimentalbasinatShanghaiJiaoTongUniversity.Inthesimulation,dynamicmeshmethodisenabledtomodelthepiston-typewave-maker,theVolumeOfFluid(VOF)methodisemployedtocapturethefreesurfaceandadissipationzoneisintroducedtodealwithwavereflection.

简介：最近，数字波浪坦克成为了一个使用得广泛地的工具学习波浪以及波浪结构相互作用，并且吸收波浪的方法作为它产生的波浪的质量上的效果很重要。然而，松驰方法和导出的动量来源方法经常被利用抑制重量在计算期间是不变的并且重复试用被要求获得可接受的吸收波浪的效果。处理上述的问题，一个保存吸收波浪的方法被开发。抑制重量被解决吸收区域的集体保存方程在决定每次走。基于这个方法，一辆二维的数字波浪坦克被使用VB语言模仿这个方法的确认被评估的各种各样的波浪建立。

简介：能量守恒定律的真正地非线性的严格地夸张的系统的自我类似的BV解决方案是围住的变化的特殊函数，这被显示出，与消失的领唱者部分。

简介：InthispaperitisstudiedthatthegeneratedtheoryofwaverecursiveinterpolationofuniformT-subdivi-stonschemeincludewaveparameter.ThepaperanalysestheconvergenceofsequencesofcontrolpolygonsproducedbywaverecursiveinterpolationT-subdivisionschemeoftheformj=l,2,…,T-1;m=O,l,…,nTk;k=0,l,2,…,anddifferentiabilityofthelimitcurve.

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简介：Theproblemofwavepartial/fullreflectionandtransmissionbywave-permeablestructureisapproachedbysolvingtheshape-relatedfunctionwithfocusontheunderstandingofwaveattenuation.2Ddepth-averagedBoussinesqtypewaveequationsaregivenwithnewdampingiteminsimulatingthenonlinearwavetransmissionthroughwave-permeablestructure.1Dwaveequationisexaminedtogivetheanalyticalexpressionoftheabsorbingcoefficient,andiscomparedwithlaboratorydatainflumetocalibratethecoefficients,andtheexpressionisapplieddirectlyinmodifiedBoussinesqtypeequations.Comparedwithwavebasindataforvariousincidentwaveconditions,theaccuratepredictionsofcombineddiffraction-refractioneffectsinsimulatingnonlinearwavegoingthroughwave-permeablebreakwaterintheengineeringapplicationcanbeobtained.Itshowsthatwave-permeablebreakwaterswithproperabsorbingeffectscanbeusedasaneffectivealternativetomassivegravitybreakwatersinreductionofwavetransmissioninshallowwater.

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简介：Basedonthetimedependentmildslopeequationincludingtheeffectofwaveenergydissipation,anexpressionfortheenergydissipationfactorisderivedinconjunctionwiththewaveenergybalanceequation,andthenapracticalmethodforthesimulationofwaveheightandwaveset-upinnearshoreregionsispresented.Thevariationofthecomplexwaveamplitudeisnumericallysimulatedbyuseoftheparabolicmildslopeequationincludingtheeffectofwaveenergydissipationduetowavebreaking.Thecomponentsofwaveradiationstressarecalculatedsubsequentlybynewexpressionsforthemaccordingtotheobtainedcomplexwaveamplitude,andthenthedepth-averagedequationisappliedtothecalculationofwaveset-upduetowavebreaking.Numericalresultsareingoodagreementwithexperimentaldata,showingthattheexpressionfortheenergydissipationfactorisreasonableandthatthenewmethodiseffectiveforthesimulationofwaveset-upduetowavebreakinginnearshoreregions.

简介：基于管理方程和相等的模型，我们建议在一架飞机之间的关系与放射状地不同类的性质在球状的几何学在一个维的媒介和一个球形的波浪挥动的相等的转变。这些相等的关系能帮助我们在不同类的媒介获得elastodynamic问题的分析答案。介绍相等的转变的物理本质是在几何学和材料性质之间的相等的关系。它显示在球状的几何学的球形的波浪问题能与可变性质域在工具条中被转变成飞机波浪问题，并且它的反的转变也是有效的。在不同类的媒介的波浪运动问题的四个不同例子基于介绍相等的关系被解决。我们在例子获得二张基本分析答案表格我和II，在例子III，和展览调查不同类的一半空间的思考行为在例子IV的一个特殊不同类，它能在经常的振幅把旅行作为球形的波浪。这研究暗示我们的想法成为解决联系问题更容易。

简介：基于描述在密度和有压缩性的波浪速度之间的关系的实验加德纳方程，为AVO分析的变换波浪思考系数极值属性被建议，在极值之间的关系放并且振幅，越过接口的平均速度比率，并且砍波浪思考系数被导出。极值位置是平均速度比率的monotonically减少的功能，并且极值振幅是平均速度比率的功能并且砍波浪思考系数。为理论模型，平均速度比率并且砍波浪思考系数从从适合力量功能到变换波浪AVO曲线获得的极值位置和振幅被转换。砍波浪思考系数节比常规变换波浪叠节有更清楚的物理意思并且为地质的结构的解释和事件关联建立理论基础。转换的方法平均速度比率并且砍从从适合力量功能获得的极值位置和振幅的波浪思考系数被用于真实CCP集合。转换平均速度比率与那些计算了从一致有压缩性并且砍波浪井木头。

简介：ThewaveCoriolis-Stokes-Force-modifiedoceanmomentumequationsarereviewedinthispaperandthewaveStokestransportispointedouttobepartoftheoceancirculations.UsingtheEuropeanCentreforMedium-RangeWeatherForecasts40-yearreanalysisdata(ERA-40data)andtheSimpleOceanDataAssimilation(SODA)version2.2.4data,themagnitudeofthistransportiscomparedwiththatofwind-drivenSverdruptransportanda5-to-10-precentcontributionbythewaveStokestransportisfound.Bothtransportsarestrongerinborealwinterthaninsummers.Thewaveeffectcanbeeithercontributionorcancellationindifferentseasons.ExaminationwithKuroshiotransportverifiessimilarseasonalvariations.Theclarificationoftheefficientwaveboundaryconditionhelpstounderstandtheroleofwavesinmasstransport.Itactsassurfacewindstressandcanbefunctionaldowntothebottomoftheageostrophiclayer.Thepumpingvelocitiesresultingfromwave-inducedstressarezonallydistributedandaresignificantinrelativelyhighlatitudes.Furtherworkwillfocusonthemodelperformanceofthewave-stress-changed-boundaryandtheroleofswellsintheeasternpartoftheoceans.

简介：Theauthorsmakeanendeavortoexplainwhyanewhybridwavemodelishereproposedwhenseveralsuchmodelshavealreadybeeninoperationandtheso-calledthirdgenerationwavemodejisprovingattractive.Thispartofthepaperisdevotedtothewindwavemodel.Bothdeepandshallowwatermodelshavebeendeveloped,theformerbeingactuallyaspecialcaseofthelatterwhenwaterdepthisgreat.Thedeepwatermodelisexceptionallysimpleinform.Significantwaveheightistheonlyprognosticvariable.Incomparisonwiththeusualmethodstocomputetheenergyinputanddissipationsempiricallyorby"tuning",theproposedmodelhasthemeritthattheeffectsofallsourcetermsarecombinedintoonetermwhichiscomputedthroughempiricalgrowthrelationsforsignificantwaves,theserelationsbeing,relativelyspeaking,easierandmorereliabletoobtainthanthoseforthesourcetermsinthespectralenergybalanceequation.Thediscretepartofthemodelandtheimplementationofthemode

简介：Thestatisticaldistributionofwavecrestcharacteristicssuchascrestlength,crestheight,jointcrestheightandlengthareanalyzedbasedonnumericalsimulationof3-Drandomwaves.Theeffectsofdirectionalfunctionsandwavecrestdefiningmethodsoncrestcharacteristicsarealsostudied.Theresultsshowthatwavecrestsarenolongeruniformandcontinuousindirectionalwavefield;thedistributionofcrestlengthisobviouslyinfluencedbythedirectionalfunction;thestatisticsofcrestcharacteristicsobtainedbythetwodifferentmethodsarealmostthesame.

简介：Asthepresentcenturydrawstoaclose,theyear1994isexpectedtowitnessanewroundoftidalwavesweepingtheworldintheformofin-depthpolicyad-justmentsandreformsinavarietyofnations,allwiththeirownfuturestatusintheforthcomingcenturyinmind.Thecatchwordinthenewyearwillbeinternationaldiversityintunewiththeglobaltransitiontomultipolarity.Thefocusislikelytobeonthereformofandcompetitionamongdifferentsocialsystemsanddivergenteco-