PROPAGATION AND BREAKING OF WAVES ON SLOPING BEACH

(整期优先)网络出版时间:1993-01-11
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Inthispaperthepropagationandbreakingofthesolitarywave,thesinusoidalwaveandthesecondStokeswaveonaslopeof1/30arediscussedbasedupontheTUMMACmethod,andthevelocityfieldsofbreakingwavesontheslopeareobtainedbyusingthetracingmethod.The.numericalresultsforwavedeformationareingoodagreementwithexperimentaldata,andthebreakerindexesdependingonthekineticcriterionagreeapproximatelywithprevi-ousresults.Furthermore,comparedwiththeexperimentalresultsmeasuredbyIwagakiandbytheauthors,thetendencyofvelocitydistributionofbreakingwavescomputedbythisnumericalmethodisalsosatisfactory.